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[Power]

Okay, idle temps first. Here is CPUID Hardware Monitor, which scares me a bit:


Real Temp says:
Average: 48° 43° 44° 44°

Does the main program window of real temp show more info? because it fails to open, I can only see the small icon where my windows watch is...

Here is CPU-Z while idle:


Starting Prime now (does it matter which kind of a test you choose? I'd go with the second?)

EDIT: Ookaaaaay. It didn't crash but it's running way too hot.

RealTemp says peak was about 80° on all cores and here is CPUID:

Note the horrible max temps (I already turned off prime at this point, so the current temps are back to normal.

I'm off cleaning (we have two cats) the fans and reseating the HSF. Don't be sad if I never come back.

[Power]

Okay I survived and I'm back. GOD I HATE that Intel boxed fan. I get how it's supposed to work, but I forget it every time I take it off and have to fiddle with it for like ten minutes until I remember...

Anyhow, it's better now, with Realtemp saying 66°, 64°, 63°, 63° while Prime is still running (has  been running for over 20 minutes now).

Here is a pic:


Now what?

[Chaos]

no OC for you, your CPU is too hot as it is at load
Your max should be 60degC anyway!

You'll need a new HSF for an OC, I suggest the Arctic Freezer 7.. a cheap performer that's really quiet

[Power]

Alright, that's about 20€, will order tomorrow. There is the freezer 7 pro and freezer 7 pro rev.2, though, should I go for rev. 2 or ist has it been "improved" in a bad way?

Also a silly question: with the case fans, usually the one on the front sucks air into the case and one on the back blows it out of the case, right? Wouldn't it be better if the one on the back would suck the cool air in, as it would be much closer to the CPU?

[DeadlyAvenger]

Alright, that's about 20€, will order tomorrow. There is the freezer 7 pro and freezer 7 pro rev.2, though, should I go for rev. 2 or ist has it been "improved" in a bad way?

Also a silly question: with the case fans, usually the one on the front sucks air into the case and one on the back blows it out of the case, right? Wouldn't it be better if the one on the back would suck the cool air in, as it would be much closer to the CPU?

That's generally not the way to do it as your PSU is usually near your CPU, and that draws air out of your case (exhaust) so you wouldn't get a smooth airflow if you had FRONT -> out, PSU -> out and BACK -> in. I think this is generally down to the fact you can't change the fan direction on your PSU...and even if you could...would you want to blow warm PSU air over your cpu fan?

[Chaos]

what deadly said.. its a general rule that if you have 2 fans, you suck from the front and exhaust from the back... just like the human body

[Power]

Okay, that's how I have it anyway, was just wondering. Thanks. So what about that Rev. 2 thingy? It costs about the same, but sometime Rev. 2 is actually a version with cheaper material and removed stuff. Anyone familiar with the difference?

[t3rribl3on3]

right now i have the better gpu  i think it might be time to clock my system. what do i need to do to get the ball rolling

[Chaos]

read the OP

[t3rribl3on3]

ill do it tonight after i put the 9500gt back in mate. i think i may need fans for my heatsink though as clocking on a fanless could be baaad

[Power]

Sooo... I bought this thingy along with my new display:


1st of all, I can't hear it at all, even with deactivated fan control, so it runs on maximum RPM (which seems to be 2850 RPM). 2nd of all, it runs considerably cooler now, though there is still a problem with temps being somewhat higher than I saw in this thread due to my graphics card only blazing hot air into the case and not out of the case. My BIOS has some automatic overclocking options, that I never tried, so I thought I'll give it a chance. There are multiple stages of overclocking and overclocking is only activated if there is load on the CPU - which might help saving energy and reduce heat output, right?

Anyway, on the fastest level, during load the automatic overclock does this (data without overclock on the right):

Which is fair enough and seems to run stable at about 60 degrees when running Prime95 (and playing TF2 at the same time). I've yet to bench anything in terms of benefits compared to the standard clock, maybe it's already a big enough gain for me, but if I were to take things further by entering numbers manually, this would be a safe starting point wouldn't it?

Any comments or advice? Thanks!

[Chaos]

don't automatic OC.

Get the values from CPU-z and put them into the BIOS. Get ALL the values inc the RAM
It will usually apply the 2nd tier of vCore with means you can scrape a lot more out of the CPU with that Mobo. With that CPU, you're going to be Mobo limited not so I think your going to stop at around 3.2Ghz anyway

Best bet would be to input those cpu/ram/nb settings and tweak them. Also, don't use prime AND TF2 to bench.. Use TF2 to bench and Prime to stability test.

[Power]

Thanks Jordan. Yeah, turned out it doesn't automatically overclock at TF2 anyway, apparently it's not THAT much of a cpu hog. Was looking to do it manually to actually see where the limit is, anyway. What's also weird is how it runs with 1.25 cpu voltage on standard clock but goes DOWN to 1.20 when it overclocks, I thought it was supposed to be the other way around?

As I said, didn't benchmark anything yet, just checking the max temperatures. Would 60° be the hard limit here? It looks like it is somewhere around there, but I don't know how good it scales - damn video card ruins everything. Will swap it for one of the DX11 generation at some point anyway, but yeah.

Okay, so I'll try entering all that stuff into bios and will report back.

[Chaos]

1.25 is on the profile for that chip on your mobo. and dropping the vCore will usually drop the temps too

A good rule is to never trust the default vcore for a guide. I got to 4.05 Ghz at 1.25 vCore wasnt stable but booted into winows and the stock vCore was 1.275

[Power]

Hmm okay some interesting stuff. When entered the values from the automatic overclock into BIOS manually (except for one thing in RAM, see below) the system failed to boot. I didn't even get a signal on display. My BIOS shuts the PC off, deactivates the overclock and starts up with stock clock again. I tried setting CPU voltage to 1.2v or 1.25v, which was both working values when it overclocked automatically, but no dice. I then put the voltages to AUTO and it booted fine with 9x330 (2.97 GHz), BUT the CPU voltage was set at about 1.34v instead of the previously seen 1.2v. It was also running hotter than it should as compared to automatic overclock to the same numbers, because of the higher voltage, obviously.

I don't know what else BIOS does when overclocking automatically, but there is a apparently a difference between that and when I enter the same numbers manually as it doesn't work as good. Also, even when I set CPU voltage to 1.34v manually, the same value that was set by the system and was working just a minute ago, it failed to boot again. MY guess is, there is something else being changed, when VoltageManagement is put to AUTO, because setting VoltageControl to AUTO also controls a couple of other things (RAM, FSB, PCI-E voltage), so my guess would be, there is also some overvoltaging going on, which makes the system boot. I tried to add 0.1v to the "normal" voltage on every of those items (I only can increase the "normal" voltage, whatever that is, further by steps of 0.1v). And it booted to windows (which was a progress), but windows then failed to boot with various error messages, such as "Bootmgr image is corrupt. The system cannot boot" or "The file is possibly corrupt. The header checksum does not match the computed checksum" or plain nothing, but a blinking cursor. After a couple of tries, my BIOS resetted the settings to normal again.

So right now I'm on 330x9 with AUTO voltaging (CPU voltage is currently at 1.344v, other voltages I can't see), which boots fine, but is running hotter than 60° pretty fast if under load (peaks at 66 with Prime at 20 minutes). Also if under load, I can see the CPU voltage dropping to currently 1.296v, probably to manage the temperature? If it was able to run at 1.2v before, why doesn't it now?

Another thingy which is about RAM is a bit funny. I can't set the frequency of RAM directly it seems, that setting is locked, but it seems to match the number CPU-Z gave me, when it was overclocked automatically, so that's fine for now. What I can't find at all, is the setting for Command Rate 2T, which isn't there at all - but it also seems to be at 2T per default. Instead, I have a couple of RAM settings, that aren't shown in CPU-Z - for now I put them to SPD values (which are also shown in the BIOS for comparing), but wanted to ask if they are significant at all? Those are:
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD) 3
Rank Write to READ Delay 4
Write to precharge delay 5
Refresh to ACT Delay 44 ()
Read to Precharge Delay 3
tRD 5
tRD Phase Adjustment 9

All those numbers are identical to what SPD shows. I currently have 4 of my old RAM (PC-3200) 2x 2x1GB in my PC because it seems to work better than my faster PC-6400 RAM, of which I only have 2x1 GB.

So how would I go about putting the system into bootable state with voltage stuff set manually? Where should I start with the CPU voltage (I can set it to many values in contrast to other things like DDR and FSB voltages)? Should I up one of the other voltage settings (DDR, PCI-E, FSB)? Or should I let the voltages to be auto managed and see if I can bring it higher than 9x330 instead? Though then the temperatures will for sure be a problem.

EDIT: Whoops, I was wrong about not being able to change the memory frequency. I can change the memory multiplyer, which changes the frequency. At the moment it's on auto, so I don't really know what frequency it runs on, but I can change it if needed. CPU-Z reports it being 412.5 MHz with 4:5 FSB:RAM ratio, which is the same it was, when system overclocked automatically. So I am now basically at the same level as when it was overclocked automatically, except it's always on and the voltage is being managed automatically, which makes it higher and hotter...

Still didn't really bench anything, mind you...